Panzer IV Ausf.G

 All of the tanks I have built, they're all Dragon kits. I was able to get this and another Tamiya kit recently and decided to build it. 

 

First thing I noticed is there are a lot of pieces to put together that normally in the Dragon kits, they're all preformed. This is apparent while working on the rear of the hull as well as the inside of the turret.  To me, it adds another level of detail.

The hull and all its parts went together pretty well. There was no fighting fitment issues, which I've had when putting the lower and upper halves together on the Dragon kits.  

 It wasn't until I got to the turret to where I ran into a small fitment issue. The port covers were just a sliver smaller than the holes they needed to cover. But with a little patience, I was able to get them on and sitting correctly. 

The gun was different than the Dragon kits. The gun build inside the hull has six or seven pieces. I like this, because it will be painted accordingly. But it adds to the realism, since it will be able to be seen once all together. The added seat was well thought out as well. 

Even the storage unit went together with no issues and attached real easy.

 

There are two different builds for this kit when it comes to the external equipment. Based on photos of the real 215, I was going with the jerry cans and extra stowage. However, I want as many tools as I can fit, without making it look like a mess. 

 

I always like to paint my tools while they're off the tank, this way I can pay attention to minor details on them. Then add them prior to painting the camo patterns. However, this tank is done in all RAL 7027 (Sandgrau), so the tools will "pop" from the tank, even when slightly weathered.

 

  

I keep the top of the turret off, since I will be painting the entire interior. It will be primed black, but then I have the German ivory to paint it. Then I will paint the seat and anything else that gets color. Once it's painted, I'll glue the top into place.

 

 The figures went to well nicely. Even the majority of the seam lines disappeared when glued together. However, they will be sanded to make sure nothing is visible when painted. Getting them into position is a different story, especially the left side figure. Trying to find just the right angle was a bit difficult. I am hoping after they're all painted and during final assembly, I can get them where they need to be. 

 

 

I still need to find a way to do the turret number 411 on the back. I bought the wrong scaled transfers from Archer, but I might try to make my own. The kit won't be accurate with out the painted over 411. 

Now all I need to do is take it apart and do a final sanding where needed and get the spare tracks and spare stowage in place.  

Based off the feedback I received at the AMPS show, I want to make sure I don't see seam lines anywhere before and after primer.  

Unlike the other tanks I've done, I will be doing this all in Tamiya paints. With the exception of the primer and chipping fluid, I want to try for an overall "flat" look. Where as with the AK Real Colors being lacquer, there was that oily feel and look, which is good in certain aspects.  

 

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AMPS - Atlanta 2026

 I attended my first AMPS show in Atlanta with Eric this past Saturday. First and foremost, the amount of talent and dedication into the builds, whether it was figures or armor, was phenomenal. Everyone did an amazing job. 

Really didn't know what to expect to be honest. I just know that it's different points and judging set up from the Chattanooga model show. But heard that the amount and kind of feedback was some of the best. As I found out, it was. 

 

Panzer IV Ausf. J Late, Silver Chatt & Bronze AMPS 2026 award

 I took two of my three tanks. Both listed under the Axis armor. Rules state that if multiple awards are to be won per category, the model with the highest points will take the award. When the awards were announced, I had two Bronze. However, due to the rules, there was only one medal. Both kits received 22.5 points. Oddly, there is an option for 1/2 a point for research. Though it was explained in the description box on the Panther, that point was never received. Maybe I needed to included a print out of the work I had?

 

Late,Panther G Late, AMPS 2026 Bronze winner

 So let's break down the feedback:

 

Panzer IV. 

Judge 1:

• Front seam open, missing item (open mounting holds)
• Top seam of driver armor not consistent
• Seam on turret, tracks no quite square
• Decals need to be cut at armor joints
• Good camo paint job

Judge 2:

• Missing part hull front, visible seams, glue spots
• Slight canting to left side track at rear
• Sprue nibs visible on some tools
• Silvering on decals, not cut over opening on turret hatches 

 Judge 3:

• Open holes on front of tank (next to brackets), several seams, good job on mufflers
• Left track wheels not aligned, left rack canted in front, good job painting tools 
• Decal silvering on a few places, 223 on right side overlaps door

Judge 4:

•  Seam on right side of front top hull
• Visible seams on turret top
• Cool camouflage pattern 

 

 

 Panther G

Judge 1:  

• Driver hatch inside out!
• Floating front wheels, right front, left rear
• Fire extinguisher not red! 
• No weathering on tracks

Judge 2:

• Steel road wheel need clean up
• Fire extinguisher shouldn't be red
• Nice paint work 

Judge 3:

• Tracks floating on both sides. Two floating road wheels
• Check sprue attachment points on turret, lifting rings
• Like the paint job. Tools are nicely finished
• You started to weather the road wheels but didn't do the tracks or carry up the hull.

Judge 4:

• Nice model, Great paint job
• Drivers hatch upside down
• Floating wheels above tracks
• Steel wheels have parting lines showing
• Tracks not weathered
• Nice figure 

 

So it seems I do really nice paint jobs! I need to check the drivers hatch where the figure is on the Panther. If it is actually upside down, I will need to fix it before it goes onto the diorama. 

Overall, I need to find away to check for seam lines I can't see and to make sure the tracks and wheels are set correctly. I will say, I didn't do a lot of things I should have done with the Panther, since it never considered it "done" without the dio. Especially weathering the track as it will need to match the dio. I did use the AK Interactive track wash on it though.

 

Regardless, this is great feedback for me to take into my other builds. I will have to double check everything on the Panzer I'm currently building for all this before paint and during.  

It was a fun day, despite my back giving me issues all day. Below is a link to all the photo's I took. I look forward to next years show.

 

AMPS Atlanta 2026 

 

 

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Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausf.G

Next on the bench after the plane is done is a Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausf.G from Tamiya. It's a kit that is set for the African campaign, though I have been concentrating on the Ardennes Forrest region. 

The kit cam from a friend of Eric's and mine.  I picked it up at this years Chattanooga show form his sister. I picked up a lot more from her as well, including some Echelon decals for the Kharkov region. I also was able to pick up some T-Rex tracks for the Panzer III/IV for a winter set. 

After doing some research on the Kharkov and Kursk battles, I opted to not to use this kit, but will most likely use another one of my Panzer IV's for that build. I will do more research on the 1st SS Panzer Division Leibstandarte since they were in both the battles of Kharkov and Kursk.

Not sure what it is, but instead of just building and painting a tank, I need to have some sort of historical accuracy to them. More so than any of the auto's I've built. 

But this kit will be modeled after something like this.

I'll do a bit of research and will most likely use the decals that came with it, since there is the DAK Palm Tree decal. Color scheme is a toss up of the Gelbbraun RAL 8000 over the Dunkelgelb RAL 7028 as above or straight Dunkelgelb RAL 7028. Haven't decided yet. 

 

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A6M2 Zero Update Three

 Finally got all but a couple of pieces attached to the plane. I will give props (pun intended) to those that build these on a regular basis. Their more delicate and finicky than armor and auto.

 Got the plane repainted and you can still see the seamline across the top of the hull. I'm not worried, this isn't going to any show. And if I start stripping and sanding again, I'll give up. Got the metallic blue laid down as well, which I don't understand that color. 

 

 I'm leaving the cowel as is. From what I read, they're black with a tiny of blue in some cases. I'll see what I can do in the weathering department with it.

Got the prop built and attached. I am missing two pieces that don't look like they're were molded to the sprue. One is the speedometer tube on the wing and the other looks like a mini stargate that goes behind the seat in front of the antennae.  I'll have to see what I can fashion so there isn't a big empty hole in the deck. 

 

One hole for the antennae, one for my missing piece. 

 

Stopped into HL last evening to pick up some ink. Going to try and make a panel wash with the ink, water and dish soap.  Watched a few videos on panel washing planes. Some were like OMG WTF dude to damn that's interesting. 

I have oils and the Tamiya Panel Liner, but might as well as try a new process. I need to clear coat it, add the decals, then add the final clear coat before weathering and washing. Going to try to get this done today. 

 

 There are visible mistakes on this. But i'm not going to worry about it. This is my first plane, so it has been a big learning curve. I need to get better at filling and sanding small areas too. The two lights on the end of the wing for example, the plastic lights are to small to fit properly. Technically, somehow, the area should have been filled and sanded before i put them in. 

I could barely hang on to those pieces. Much less worry about filling and sanding. I do feel Ive done a great job for this being a first. I have a few more plane kits I would like to try, but next on the bench after this is a Tamiya Panzer IV Asuf G.

 The kit, which came from a friend of Eric's and mine has some Echelon decals for Kursk. The figures that come with the tank are dressed for Africa. I really want to do a Kursk tank in German Grey, because I already have three tanks dressed out in colors for Africa. However, I'll save the decals for another time and build an African tank. I have a few things I want to try anyways. 

 

 

 

 

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A6M2 Zero Update

 It's been awhile since I worked on this. Went to Eric's this past weekend for a build day. I already had it primed and I laid down the JN Grey the night before. That's when I noticed the seamlines I thought I had gotten rid of. 

I am going to have to stop using black primer. It always comes down to, I don't see it without primer, can't see it with primer to holly batballs would ya look at that, when the base color goes down.

So I spent the day, sanding out the seamlines on the top and bottom of the hull. I also grabbed the engine and got that painted and panel washed. Got the cockpit painted, panel lined and dry brushed.

Sanding the belly of the beast

 

 

Last evening, i finished sanding and got the primer and base coat back on. Today,   had a few minutes, I took some fine steel wool and gently went over the plane to smooth out the bumps. Was afraid i would scratch the paint, but it doesn't seem it.  

In the meantime, I destroyed a good pullover and pair of jeans due to an old injury acting up and spilling Tamiya Flat Black paint all over myself.   

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Challenger R/T Custom - Finished

I really wasn't going to write anything on this, but as the week went on, I thought I needed to. This kit was a bear. I did all the test fitting before any primer was laid down and things seem to be good. I found the areas I needed to fix, areas that I could build upon, etc. 

But I should have known what would become of an very old kit that was re-popped and never retooled.  

I was able to finish off the engine bay. It was a monster, well out of my wheel house. But I had to do it to say I've done it. There's got to be better way to accomplish what I did without all the mess, and if I attempt it again, I'll find those ways.

 I really need to find a better way to apply CA glue because the toothpick method doesn't really work for all aspects. Regardless, this is the third kit I've done plug wires on and the first for cables and hose replacement. I remember prefitting the radiator hose, drilling out the holes in the block for it to fit. after paint and assembly, the hose was a tad to long. Go figure.

What has always got me and I never really understood was body to chassis fitment issues. You can do all the prefittment you want, with the interior tub, chassis, the whole nine. But once you add paint, forget it. The body doesn't want to sit flush anymore. 

These old AMT kits kill me with their dashboards. The interior tub is too wide where it's supposed to sit, and the dashboards never look flush when the entire thing is together. It always looks tilted. 

 

 

 The paint really pissed me off this time around. The process didn't change. Sand the plastic, wash the plastic to get residue off, prime, dry, paint, dry. And yet this go around with the Createx paint, even with 8 coats of color and 6 coats of their clear, paint rubbed off like oil on water. So most of the very highest ridges the paint and primer rubbed off. Few spots on the roll pans rubbed off. 

Even the Micro Set/Sol had a reaction to the paint in a few places that it's never done before. Not sure if Createx hanged formulas or what. 

The kit didn't come with the tail lights. I bought this kit last October with intent to build it for the '26 model show. Glad it didn't get that far to be honest. However, I don't have the receipt, so it will cost me eight bucks for two tiny lights.  Honestly, not worrying about it. 

Technically, I could fill in the pre-drilled holes in the bumper, worry about sanding the chrome off when the putty is dry then just paint in the lights with the Testors tail light paint. But it's not worth it at this time. 

 

 

 Then I have always questioned the need for these companies to mold things like bumpers into multiple pieces to piss us off. This also includes roll pans. Usually in order to get the body onto the frame, you have to leave such pieces off the kit. Then add them after the body fitment. Which in turn sometimes leads to accidents no matter how careful you try to be. 

I was able to fix the rear on this on to where glue wasn't everywhere, but it wasn't easy.  Then trying to attach it to the kit with nothing more than a few spots as thin as paper to use glue, looking back, I probably should have used some bluetac.

In the end, the kit is done. I was well outside my wheel house with all the extra. I'm not going to get started on PE, and I only added a little bit. I did what I set out to do and that was to build this kit with all of the extra engine bay add ons, the extra PE and in a custom color.

 

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